REVIEW: The Substance

Genre: Horror; Drama; Comedy

Director: Coralie Fargeat

Writer: Coralie Fargeat

Starring: Demi Moore, Margaret Qualley and Dennis Quaid

As a non-fan of horror flicks, I consider 2024 to be one of the most interesting years for the genre. For me, The Substance represents the genre peaking both in its style and in its utility: a movie that's both spellbiding but also makes you look away from its visual narrative; and a movie that comments society's obsession with beauty and perfection but also mocks it and offers a view of the ugly side of the coin. For its style and substance, The Substance might well be one of the most daring, smart and interesting movies I've seen in years!

The movie starts with the star of Elizabeth Sparkle in Hollywood Walk of Fame, from its very beginning and going through time, losing interest from those who pass by, starting to crack and being covered in ketchup. It all plays like a brief summary of The Substance's narrative and it's interesting how things play quite literal from there. The movie presents Elizabeth as a Hollywood star with a long running aerobics TV star who turns 50 and she's deemed "not young" enough to feed the audiences' craving for something new, something keen on the eye, and then she's dismissed from her job - which provides the first statement about the cruelty around a woman's age. Elizabeth (played by Demi Moore) decides to order a black-market serum named The Substance in order to get what its slogan promised: a younger, more beautiful and more perfect version of herself. Things kind of derail when The Substance doesn't change Elizabeth but instead generate a new being, Sue (Margaret Qualley) who steps in the world for 7 days alternated with the original version of Elizabeth. A balance most be kept, but it isn't - and I can't say more due to spoilers
Visually, The Substance uses a lot of references from horror classics. From 1960's Psycho's bathroom, 1980's The Shinning's corridor or even some monstruous similarities with 1986's The Fly's monster, but Coralie Fargeat knows how to keep the movie of her own thanks to the way she presents her female lead's journey and the way she comments on the subjects of beauty standards, aging and business lack of ethics towards women. It is more of a satire kind of disguised of a horror film and those who go watch it knowing the least possible about it might be actually impressed with its depht. It's some sort of a masterpiece that would be destined to cult status if it hadn't be so successful - which makes the word "classic" more appropriate. 
In the acting department, both actresses excel in their roles. Demi Moore delivers the best performance of her career and this role suits her like a glove - she understands the many layers of Elizabeth, who, despite being beautiful, is not at her prime like she was in the 20's and 30's and that affects her self-image. In fact, no one can ever say Moore/Elizabeth Sparkle isn't beautiful but the thing here is: at 50, after being dismissed because you are just "not enough" how would the most most beautiful woman in the world feel? The film never presents Elizabeth as a lesser beauty at the eyes of those outside of the business (she has a "love interest" who states she still is the most beautiful woman in the world), but presents her as a victim of ageism. Two scenes elevate this statement: Elizabeth looking at herself at the mirror before taking The Substance and Elizabeth getting ready for a date. In both we a woman who doesn't accept herself due to younger beauty standards: her lips aren't as plumpy, her breasts aren't as firm as they were and there are wrinckles in her face. The ultimate moment the audience understand the distorced self-image of Elizabeth is when she sees her distorted reflection at the door handle moments before leaving her house. It's a smart directing choice, but it's Moore's credit because she never overplays these moments as the anger she feels towards herself is only mirrored  - class act moments that only prove Moore has been underused for years (or getting the wrong material to work with, at least).

As for Margaret Qualley she uses her "angel" quality here when her character is first introduced - a "pure" smile in a sinful body - but then she evolves to something we've never seen her doing on-screen before as her Sue displays rage, narcissism and some primal impulses. It might be Qualley's best work since her performance in Maid miniseries and she totally owns the movie by the time it approaches its final. She proves she's one of the best (and more interesting) actresses of her generation.

Technically, The Substance offers some of the most impressive makeup works in years: from Sue's breasts, to Elizabeth's finger, to a full body monster, the makeup team (said to be headed by Pierre Olivier Persin) excels here! The use of sound is also a great part in the movie (with a dope score by Raffertie) and the cinematography choices make the movie even more bizarre, yet somewhat intimate, allowing the audience to be thrilled and connected with the characters. It's never style over substance, it's all perfectly balanced.

So, The Substance surprises thanks to its original narrative and its satire about the cruelty of the entertainment industry towards women. It's a statement about what it means to be someone living in a world where beauty dictates your chances of success. It's an impressive directorial achievement from Coralie Fargeat, elevated by a never-been-better Demi Moore and a commited Margaret Qualley. The Substance sure has substance and it might well be the best and more intriguing movie of the year - horror or not.

RATING: 10/10

Oscar potential categories:

* Best Picture

* Best Director

* Best Actress (Demi Moore)

* Best Supporting Actress (Margaret Qualley)

* Best Original Screenplay

* Best Makeup & Hair